Stop-Motion Animation Primer Part II: Software

(Note: For clarifications on the camera types mentioned in this article, see Part I: Cameras.)

Stop-motion animation software runs the usual gamut of computer programs, from freeware to professional applications. Due to a limited consumer base, however, even professional stop-motion software is relatively affordable. For this reason, I only briefly mention free software and instead focus on retail software offered to amateurs and professionals. Note that this is not a comprehensive list of available applications. Rather, this list primarily represents those applications which caught my attention while researching the subject for myself.

Also, few stop-motion applications provide the video-editing features required to assemble a full movie. Therefore, you may need to purchase extra software to complete your animations. I mention such considerations in my Case Study at the end of this article, as well as a few video-editing applications which I tested.

Free Stop-Motion Software & Apps

Although I never seriously pursued any free stop-motion software, that didn't stop me from searching. Programs like MonkeyJam, Stop Motion Animator, StopIt, and AnimatorDV Simple+ will let you try your hand at stop-motion but only work with video devices, such as webcams or camcorders (or scanners in MonkeyJam's case). Free apps for cellphone cameras like GorillaCam and iMotion HD will let you make animations using a cellphone or tablet.

All of the major retail stop-motion programs have trial versions you can download however, meaning you can test them for free as well.

Amateur Stop-Motion Software

There are a number of inexpensive software applications aimed at stop-motion enthusiasts which may fit your needs if you don't require the advanced features of professional software. A few of them even offer features not found in some professional packages, such as sound effects and sound recording.  Note that two of the professional programs also retail in stripped-down versions for amateur movie-makers.

Claymation Studio (~$70) is software aimed at children and only works with video devices, such as webcams and camcorders. The program features everything needed to construct simple animated movies however, including sound recording and chroma key. A trial may be downloaded here.

iKITMovie (~$70) is aimed at enthusiasts in general and, like Claymation Studio, works primarily with video devices, though stills may be imported also. One of the main selling points of iKITMovie is the inclusion of over 2000 sound effects. Voice recording, simple visual effects, and time-lapse photography also number among its features.

iStopMotion (~$50) is software for Mac users and works with most video devices. The website claims that many digital still cameras may also be used with iStopMotion, but the description sounds a lot like directory scanning, meaning you won't see a live feed coming from your camera. iStopMotion also has the interesting feature of turning your iPhone, iPad or iPod Touch into a remote capture device.

VideoStudio Pro (~$80) is actually video-editing software but includes the ability to create stop-motion animations. It supports a number of cameras and input devices, including DSLRs with live view capability. Time-lapse photography, screen capture and visual effects number among its features. You can download a trial from the Corel website.

Professional Stop-Motion Software

Professional stop-motion software is used by major studios to create films like ParaNorman and Frankenweenie. Although they contain certain features too advanced for most hobbyists, these programs retail for a relatively affordable price when compared to many other professional applications. All three listed here support a wide range of cameras (particularly Canon and Nikon DSLRs), 3D film-making, capturing multiple exposures at once, x-sheet and lip-syncing aids, and overlay tools for planning your animations.

Stop Motion Pro ($70-$295) is used by Aardman, producers of the award-winning Wallace and Gromit films. Four different versions are available, each aimed at a different audience, from novice to professional. The novice versions share features with Claymation Studio and can be bought bundled with a webcam. A lip-syncing application, Lip Sync Pro ($49), is also available.

AnimatorHD ($70-$572) also sells in four different versions, and offers a free older version of the program (AnimatorDV Simple+). The website boasts many advanced features as well as free updates, but doesn't mention major studios that use the software.

Dragonframe ($295) has a strong focus on animation and is used by studios such as Laika, makers of Coraline, and Disney (Frankenweenie). It has advanced lighting and motion control features as well as vector-based drawing tools for planning your animations. Dragonframe sometimes goes on sale on Amazon and comes bundled with a special keypad for convenient control while animating.

Case Study: My Personal Experience

During my search for stop-motion software I tried the following programs: AnimatorDV Simple+, Stop Motion Pro, VideoStudio Pro, iKITMovie, and Dragonframe. My initial plan was to test my enthusiasm using free software (AnimatorDV Simple+) and then upgrade if I wanted more. Not long after trying Dragonframe however, I changed my mind. In fact, Dragonframe was the only application I instantly felt comfortable using.  Most of the other programs immediately present you with confusing prompts the first time you use them (to set preview resolution, framerate, etc.). Dragonframe lets you jump right in and presents you with a very intuitive, uncluttered interface.

Initially, I wrestled with the desire to have more features, as Dragonframe won't even let you import images (which caused problems that I discuss later). Nor does it include sound effects like iKITMovie, or have video-editing features like VideoStudio Pro (which unfortunately didn't support my first camera setup). I knew that I had Photoshop to back me up with my video-editing requirements however, and I wasn't ready to take the plunge into sound effects anyway. My main concerns were trying my hand at animation and enjoying myself in the process.

Eventually I decided to use the Dragonframe demo to create my first animation. After reading through the manual hands-on, I encountered my first problem.  Since Dragonframe can't import images, I didn't know how I was going to edit my high-resolution stills. My first setup required using a video-assist from the video-out port of my camera, meaning that none of the final shots would be imported into Dragonframe while I worked. Instead, only the low-resolution video-assist images would be captured (see my explanation on how to use a video-assist camera in Part I: Cameras). Also, my camera uses a first-generation Sony Memory Stick, so I couldn't use an Eye-Fi SD card to transfer my shots for directory scanning. I thought maybe I could edit the high-res stills using a different program but then I would have to redo all of the edits I had done in Dragonframe. Fortunately, after much head-scratching, I figured out a solution to my problem: I used a batch rename utility (the one found in Adobe Bridge) to rename all of my high-resolution stills so that they matched the names of the video-assist stills captured by Dragonframe. Then I simply moved the high-res stills into the folder with the video-assist stills, overwriting the video-assist stills in the process.

The process of creating my first animation was still quite arduous. The Dragonframe demo limits each take to 50 frames, so I had to stitch together around a dozen different takes in Photoshop to complete my animation (which you can see here). Still, I was sold on Dragonframe and eventually purchased it on Amazon while it was $25 off (I had seen it before for $50 off but wasn't sold on the program yet).

While Photoshop met most of my final editing needs, I also tried out After Effects and Sony Movie Studio. My main intent was to find a video-editing application that would allow me to add motion blur to my animations (I had seen motion blur added to other people's animations and was very impressed with the effect). After Effects and Sony Movie Studio are both capable of using a plugin called ReelSmart Motion Blur, considered by many to be the best motion blur plugin available. Several other programs can use the plugin too but either didn't interest me or don't operate on my platform (PC). I was very impressed with the plugin's result in After Effects but shied away from the price. Sony Movie Studio is much cheaper than After Effects but also felt less stable. Eventually I decided to use an effect called Timewarp inside of After Effects to add motion blur to my animation (you can watch a tutorial here). While it renders much slower than ReelSmart, Timewarp produced satisfactory results and allowed me to complete my animation with trial software (the ReelSmart demo adds a watermark).

Closing Thoughts

All of the retail software applications in this article have demos which can be downloaded for free, so don't hesitate to try them. And be sure to test your camera equipment with them before making a purchase. I barely scratched the surface as far as video-editing software is concerned. My animation needs were fairly specific and didn't include sound or fancy effects (other than motion blur). Your needs may vary greatly from mine.

Stop-Motion Animation Primer Part I: Cameras

I've been dabbling in stop-motion animation recently, which for me means spending just as much time (if not more) researching the subject. Jumping right in is easy however, as digital photography simplifies the process tremendously compared to film techniques of the past. Still, new endeavors can be daunting, so I wrote these articles to let other people benefit from my experiences.

In this article I discuss camera options for stop-motion animation. I also mention the choices I made when starting out, to give an idea of the sort of personal considerations you might have to make when selecting a camera for yourself.

Cameras for Stop-Motion Animation

These days, all you really need to start making your own stop-motion animations is a webcam. In fact, most any digital camera will work, but certain camera types make the process much easier than others. For the best results you'll want a camera with full manual control (of focus, aperture and shutter speed) to ensure that your settings don't fluctuate from shot to shot. A camera with live view capability can also provide a great advantage, allowing you to control your camera with a stop-motion program. Practically any camera can benefit from a digital workflow however so long as you have the right setup.

Cellphone Cameras

Although cellphone cameras aren't robust or flexible enough for professional stop-motion work, some are more than adequate for practicing animation or making videos for the internet. Stop-motion apps like GorillaCam can be used to quickly assemble and preview your animations right on your phone. iStopMotion, software for the Mac, can even turn your iPhone, iPad, or iPod Touch into a remote capture device.

The following article provides a good in-depth example of how a cellphone camera may be used for stop-motion animation: How to Turn Your iPhone Into a Stop Motion Camera.

In general, cellphone cameras share many of the same limitations as webcams however, which are discussed in the following section.

Webcams

Cheap and easy to use, most webcams can be accessed directly by stop-motion software, allowing you to preview your animations and capture the exact image you see on screen. In fact, some webcams come bundled with software such as Claymation Studio. You can even create high-definition animations in 1080p with higher-end webcams like Microsoft's LifeCam.

Like cellphone cameras however, webcams lack flexibility. The lenses used in webcams are usually fixed at a wide-angle, meaning you'll need to have the camera close to the action to fill the frame. This can be inconvenient while animating and increases the chance that you'll bump the camera while working. Most webcams also lack full manual control of such features as aperture and shutter speed, which allow you to vary the depth of field in your shots (the range which appears in focus).

Webcams have other advantages however, including the ability to act as a video-assist to other cameras. Basically, you can use a webcam to interact with your stop-motion software, letting you preview your animation, while you use another camera to capture your final high-resolution stills (I'll expand on this in the following sections). Due to their light weight, webcams are also easy to manipulate, allowing for interesting camera moves. For instance, you could mount your webcam on a modified swing-arm lamp to create a camera crane.

Overall, webcams present a good, inexpensive way to start experimenting with stop-motion animation.

Low-End to Mid-range Digital Cameras

Low-end 'compact' or 'point-and-shoot' cameras offer good image quality and high resolutions, but rarely allow full manual control of their features. Mid-range or 'bridge' cameras (cameras positioned between amateur and professional cameras) allow more control but share some of the same limitations as compact cameras when it comes to interfacing with stop-motion software.

Unlike webcams, most digital cameras are not designed to be operated when connected to a computer, and thus cannot be utilized directly by stop-motion software. In order to use such a camera, either a video-assist camera is required (such as a webcam or the camera itself via a video-out cable) or the software must be able to acquire stills from the camera (by automatically scanning a directory or by manually importing the stills).

Using a video-assist camera such as a webcam lets you preview your animation in a stop-motion program while you capture the final high-resolution stills with another camera. Of course, for every shot you take with the video-assist camera, you will also need to take a shot with your primary camera. After you've finished capturing all of your frames, you can import the images to assemble the final animation. Some cameras can be used as their own video-assist camera by utilizing a video-out cable. This allows the stop-motion software to use the low-resolution preview from the camera's viewfinder. A USB video adapter may be necessary for this setup, however (I discuss this more in my Case Study below).

Directory scanning, available in programs like Dragonframe and Stop Motion Pro, continuously scans a directory for new images and imports them automatically. This will work if your camera has remote control software which will automatically transfer your images to your computer, or if you're using an Eye-Fi SD card, a special memory card which can wirelessly transfer images to your computer. Although directory scanning will not provide a live feed while you are working, it can ease the process of importing your final images while you work with a video-assist camera.

For tips on manually importing your high-resolution stills, see my Case Study in the next article (Part II: Software), in which I personally deal with that issue.

Compact and mid-range digital cameras generally require more effort to use for stop-motion animation than webcams or professional digital cameras. For this reason, it is hard to recommend them unless you already own one (as was my case, which I detail in my Case Study below).

For more information on directory scanning and using the Eye-Fi SD card, see this tutorial on Stop Motion Pro's website.

Video Cameras

Video cameras generally have little trouble interacting with stop-motion software so long as you can output the video signal from your camera to your computer. This may require a USB video adapter for cameras with an A/V out or a Firewire cable and conversion card for Firewire DV cameras. HD video cameras may require an HDMI conversion card or decoder software for HDV Firewire cameras. As with all digital cameras, full manual control over features such as exposure and focus will yield the best results.

For more information on using video cameras, see the following tutorials on Stop Motion Pro's website: 
USB Video Adapters
Firewire Cameras
HD Video Cameras

DSLR Cameras

DSLRs or 'Digital Single Lens Reflex' cameras represent one of the best choices for stop-motion animation. Aimed at professional photographers and hobbyists, DSLRs provide the best image quality, full manual control and interchangeable lenses. Some DSLR cameras with live view capability, like those made by Canon and Nikon, also provide easy integration with many stop-motion animation programs. The live view feature on these cameras allows you to connect your camera to your computer, enabling you to preview your shots and control your camera with your stop-motion software.

If you are serious about stop-motion animation, then upgrading to a Canon or Nikon DSLR with live view should be a consideration.

For a list of Canon and Nikon live view cameras, see Dragonframe's supported cameras page.

Film Cameras

If you are determined to try the traditional route, film cameras can benefit from stop-motion software by using a video-assist camera, as described in the 'Low-end to Mid-range Digital Cameras' section above.

If you need to manually import your shots after developing and scanning your film, see my Case Study in the next article (Part II: Software) for tips on how to utilize the edits you made with your stop-motion software.

Camera Accessories

Certain accessories will make your work more enjoyable after you've selected your camera. A tripod, for instance, is practically indispensable. For smaller cameras, such as webcams and cellphones, a stack of books or a small table tripod like a GorillaPod could suffice. Or, as mentioned before, you could mount such a camera to a swing-arm lamp to allow for more creative camera moves. Larger cameras may require a full-size tripod to let you position the camera far enough away to work comfortably. You might even consider getting one with a geared head to allow for precise pans and tilts.

An AC power adapter made for your camera is also worth getting. Otherwise, you may have to move the camera to recharge the battery. And don't forget to buy extension cords (USB, firewire, etc.) if you want to position your camera far from your computer.

A remote shutter is a consideration if you'll be manually taking shots with a digital camera. Without a remote shutter you risk moving the camera whenever you take a shot. Or, if you don't mind the delay, you can try using the timed shutter release built into many cameras. A timed release will allow your camera to settle back into position after you engage the shutter.

And, last but not least, keep in mind that many digital cameras do not include a memory card.

Case Study: My Personal Experience

When I started out in stop-motion, I had two cameras at my disposal: a Canon PowerShot ELPH 110 HS and a Sony DSC-F707. The Elph is a point-and-shoot camera and doesn't allow full manual control, leading me to eliminate it fairly quickly. The Sony, however, has full manual control but dates back to 2001. Still, the Sony has a high enough resolution to allow for 1080p animations so I kept it in mind while I researched my options.

I thought about buying a Microsoft LifeCam Studio since it received praise on Stop Motion Pro's website, but the inability to adjust the webcam's focal length led me to ultimately decide against it (I envisioned having the camera behind me, out of the way). DSLRs were an attractive option but I knew I didn't want to spend too much money before finding out if my interest in stop-motion were just a passing fancy.

Eventually I learned about USB video adapters and figured out that I could use one to turn my Sony into its own video-assist camera, since the DSC-F707 has a video-out port. Deciding on a video adapter proved difficult however, as many of the inexpensive adapters on Amazon sounded hit or miss. I ended up taking a chance on the Mygica EZgrabber2 and fortunately had little difficulty setting it up. I already owned a tripod and a nice geared head for it, but also decided to purchase a remote shutter and USB extension cable (I knew that I would have to offload images from my camera fairly frequently since the maximum capacity of the camera's memory stick is a whopping 128 mb).

Luckily my research paid off and most of the stop-motion programs I tried recognized my camera's output. Eventually I created my first stop-motion animation and discovered two inconvenient shortcomings: (1) the camera's viewfinder preview is very low-resolution (I knew this going in but decided to live with it anyway), and (2) the camera reset the lens's zoom and focus every time I plugged it into my computer to offload the memory stick. Still, after much effort (see the Case Study from Part II), I eventually managed to create a decent animation with some trial software (you can see it here).

Happy with my overall experience, I decided to upgrade my camera to a DSLR. After comparing the live view capability of Canons to Nikons on the Dragonframe website, I decided to get a Canon DSLR. The Canon EOS Rebel T4i (with 18-135mm EF-S IS STM lens) ended up as my final choice for the following reasons:

- The T5i had just been released but with nearly identical features, so the T4i's had dropped in price.
- The T4i is capable of recording video in 1080p, in case I want to try my hand at movie-making (or integrating video with my stop-motion animations).
- The STM lens was a newer lens and features quiet auto-focus (I had already experienced how noisy auto-focus can be during video recording with the Canon Elph I own).
- The T4i features stereo microphones (the previous model, the T3i, and the higher model, the 60D, only featured mono recording).
- I did not need any of the features of the higher models, such as fast continuous shooting.

If I had not been interested in shooting video in stereo sound with quiet auto-focus, I could have bought the T3i or a lower model and saved some money. In fact, the T3i actually has a larger live view preview than the T4i. Or I could have bought the T4i with the older 18-55mm lens kit. In addition to a quiet auto-focus however, I figured that the newer lens might reduce potential flicker problems in my animations.

So far, I'm happy with the choice that I made, and bought an (admittedly overpriced) AC adapter for the camera as well.

A Closing Thought

Before buying a camera to use for your stop-motion animations, familiarize yourself with the various stop-motion programs available. I cover the most popular ones in my next article.